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The just-style green report

just-style, January 2011, Pages: 48

The just-style green report is an innovative research report that looks at ethics, sustainability, Fairtrade and corporate social responsibility in the fashion retail and clothing industries. Included in the report's findings are the results of an exclusive online survey to just-style readers, asking vital questions about these important issues for the modern apparel industry.

The report considers moral issues in the supply chain that starts with fibre, moves through fabric then garment manufacturing and ultimately becomes apparel sold to consumers at retail.

The research addresses four main areas of interest in ‘greenness’:
1. Are the companies, both retailers and clothing brands, acting ethically?
2. Are the products that they sell produced sustainably?
3. Is trade conducted on a level playing field, in a fair manner?
4. Do the companies, both retailers and clothing, behave with corporate social responsibility?

This latest just style report investigates green compliance from three different points of view:

- How governments and other authorities attempt to impose compliance upon the fashion retail and clothing supply and manufacturing industries;
- How individuals and pressure groups strive to force compliance on the fashion retail and clothing supply and manufacturing industries;
- How the companies in these industries independently manage compliance.

Issues considered include, amongst others:

- Is compliance a moral issue?
- Is it good business practice?
- Is it a marketing tool?

Leading people active in the field have been interviewed and their opinions canvassed, including interviews with The Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI), The All Party Political Group for ethical fashion (APPG), The Centre for Sustainable Fashion (CSF), Marks & Spencer, The Fairtrade Foundation, The Environmental Justice Foundation (EJF), and Hennes & Mauritz (H&M).

The report then questions the argument that behaving responsibly will also deliver the optimal commercial outcomes by retaining customers, increasing sales and maximising profit.

Findings from the 600 responders of the just-style green survey are analysed, and the following key areas are discussed chapter by chapter:

- Ethics: Are fashion retailers and clothing suppliers acting ethically?
- Sustainability: Is the merchandise sustainable?
- Fairtrade: Is the clothing trade conducted on a level playing field, in a fair manner?
- CSR: Do fashion retailers and clothing suppliers behave with corporate social responsibility?

Finally, just-style’s conclusions on the industry's relationship with green issues are presented.

Chapter 1 Introduction
- Why be green?

Chapter 2 The argument
- Whose job is green anyway?
- The overlap between the elements of green
- The argument against
- The argument for

Chapter 3 The just-style green survey
- Green has become a real issue, not just posturing
- The survey questionnaire
- The survey results, questions 1-4.
- The survey results, questions 5-7: responsibility, effectiveness and morals in the fashion business on green issues
- just-style’s survey summarised

Chapter 4 Ethics: Are fashion retailers and clothing suppliers acting ethically?
- Some examples of recent ethical practices
- The Ethical Trading Initiative
- Government, pressure groups or industry self-regulation?
- just-style’s commentary on ethics

Chapter 5 Sustainability: Is the merchandise sustainable?
- Some examples of recent sustainable practices
- Environmental laundering
- From sheep to chic
- EU recycling legislation
- Estethica, the sustainable activity of the British Fashion Council
- The Sustainable Clothing Action Plan (SCAP)
- The Centre for Sustainable Fashion (CSF)
- The Environmental Justice Foundation (EJF)
- just-style’s commentary on sustainability, and the stance of Marks & Spencer

Chapter 6 Fairtrade: Is the clothing trade conducted on a level playing field, in a fair manner?
- Fairtrade labelling’s international history
- An example of Fairtrade practices
- The role of government in Fairtrade
- The Fairtrade Foundation
- The Environmental Justice Foundation
- just-style’s commentary on Fairtrade

Chapter 7 CSR: Do fashion retailers and clothing suppliers behave with corporate social responsibility?
- Government legislation and pressure group activities on corporate social responsibility
- A big retailer company example of corporate social responsibility
- A clothing industry example of corporate social responsibility
- CSR according to Lee Ahrendorff, and a criticism from John Zarocostas
- just-style’s commentary on corporate social responsibility
- Brandix, Sri Lanka: A green apparel manufacturing plant

Chapter 8 just-style’s conclusion on green
- How green is the fashion industry in 2010?
- Conclusions on the survey
- Conclusions on the issues
- Conclusions on morality, business policy and marketing

List of figures
Figure 1: The three spheres of sustainability
Figure 2: The three spheres of corporate social responsibility
Figure 3: The just-style CSR chart

List of tables
Table 1: Question 1: Classify yourself into one or more of the following ‘green compliance’ categories
Table 2: Question 2: How interested are you in green issues?
Table 3: Question 3: How involved are you in green issues?
Table 4: Question 4: Which elements of green capture your attention?
Table 5: Question 5: Who do you think is responsible for green in clothing?
Table 6: Question 6: Rate the following in terms of their effectiveness within green compliance

- The Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI)
- The All Party Political Group for ethical fashion (APPG)
- The Centre for Sustainable Fashion (CSF)
- Marks & Spencer
- The Fairtrade Foundation
- The Environmental Justice Foundation (EJF)
- Hennes & Mauritz (H&M)

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