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Survey of the European Fabric Fairs for Spring/Summer 2024

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    Report

  • 34 Pages
  • June 2023
  • Region: Europe
  • Textiles Intelligence Ltd.
  • ID: 5062028

The European fabric fairs for the spring/summer 2024 season were held in a hesitant spirit, reflecting the pressures facing all sectors of the textile and clothing industries in Europe. In particular, the industries are being challenged by increasing legislative pressure as lawmakers push to enforce industry-wide regulation. They are also being challenged by persistent inflationary pressure--in part, as a result of the war in Ukraine, which caused European gas prices to soar to record highs in 2022. 

As a result of these developments, the mood across Europe is sombre and this is reflected in the key colours for the spring/summer 2024 season--which, for the most part, are dark. Prints and patterns are important in the designs of collections for the spring/summer 2024 season. Marbling, painterly brushstrokes and mark making are prevalent. So are gingham, nautical stripes, animal prints, and tropical imagery. The designs which are most popular, however, are dreamlike, ephemeral, and otherworldly--and many of the collections for the spring/summer 2024 season are influenced by alternative universes, fantasy and utopia.

Also popular in the designs of collections for the season are fancy and novel fabrics--echoing a joyful spirit, which is a welcome contrast to the sombre mood reflected in the key colours for the season. 

In addition to fabrics, there was a notable increase in the number of artificial leather materials on display at the fairs compared with previous editions--reflecting demand for bio-based and plant-based alternatives to real animal leather and synthetic leather. Several exhibitors at the fairs demonstrated significant advances in the aesthetics and performance of artificial leather materials, despite criticism from many in the industry that such materials do not show the levels of durability and strength required to compete with real animal leather.

Who should buy this report?

  • Manufacturers of fibres, textiles, clothing and chemicals
  • Textile and clothing machinery manufacturers - spinning, weaving, knitting, sewing and import/export
  • Textile and clothing brands and retailers like Adidas, H&M etc.
  • Educational institutions like universities, fashion schools etc.
  • Business consultancy firms 
  • Textile and clothing trade associations
  • Government trade bodies

Table of Contents


SUMMARYTRADING CONDITIONS
FABRIC FAIRS
  • Lineapelle
  • Milano Unica
  • Munich Fabric Start
  • Première Vision Paris
  • Texworld
FABRIC TRENDS
  • Colours
  • Key colours
  • Principal metallics
  • Prints and patterns
  • Fancy fabrics
  • Artificial leather materials
APPENDIX: INFLATIONARY AND LEGISLATIVE PRESSURES FACING THE EUROPEAN TEXTILE AND CLOTHING INDUSTRIES
  • Inflationary pressure
  • Legislative pressure
  • European Green Deal
  • EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles
  • Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD)
  • Waste Framework Directive (WFD)
List of Tables
Table 1: European fabric fairs for spring/summer 2024 and autumn/winter 2024/25

List of Figures
Figure 1: Colours in the magnetic intensity category
Figure 2: Colours in the quiet naturalness category
Figure 3: Colours in the radiant luminosities category
Figure 4: Colours in the versatile shades category
Figure 5: Metallic fabric for spring/summer 2024
Figure 6: Metallic fabric for spring/summer 2024
Figure 7: Print design for spring/summer 2024
Figure 8: Print design for spring/summer 2024
Figure 9: Print design for spring/summer 2024
Figure 10: Print design for spring/summer 2024
Figure 11: Print design for spring/summer 2024
Figure 12: Print design for spring/summer 2024
Figure 13: Print design for spring/summer 2024
Figure 14: Print design for spring/summer 2024
Figure 15: Stretch lace fabric for spring/summer 2024
Figure 16: Eyelet fabric for spring/summer 2024
Figure 17: Net fabric for spring/summer 2024
Figure 18: Stretch lace fabric for spring/summer 2024
Figure 19: Houndstooth fabric for spring/summer 2024
Figure 20: Tweed fabric for spring/summer 2024
Figure 21: Jacquard fabric for spring/summer 2024
Figure 22: Jacquard fabric for spring/summer 2024
Figure 23: Embroidery fabric for spring/summer 2024
Figure 24: Sequined fabric for spring/summer 2024
Figure 25: Broderie anglaise fabric for spring/summer 2024
Figure 26: Broderie anglaise fabric for spring/summer 2024
Figure 27: Venetian lace fabric for spring/summer 2024
Figure 28: Crochet fabric for spring/summer 2024

Samples

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Executive Summary

Developments in advanced mono material fabrics and fabrics made using cellulosic fibres were widespread at the European fabric fairs for spring/summer 2023 as manufacturers continue to improve the recyclability of textile products, according to "Survey of the European fabric fairs for spring/summer 2023".

The textile and apparel industry is facing mounting pressures to improve the recyclability of its products in order to move towards a circular economy, and these pressures are being exacerbated by the introduction of new EU laws.

In particular, regulations relating to Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) will come into force in the 27 EU member states from December 2024 and will require manufacturers to take on significant responsibility for the treatment or disposal of post-consumer products.

The recyclability of textile products is problematic because, generally, conventional fabrics and textile products are made using complex mixtures of fibres, dyes and finishing chemicals. As a result, they are difficult to recycle at the ends of their useful lives.

Existing recycling plants are unable to work with complex mixtures. Consequently, 73% of apparel ends up in landfill or is incinerated at the end of its useful life. And only 1% of textiles are recycled into new fabrics.

The difficulties of recycling apparel containing mixtures of fibres are compounded by the rise in popularity of stretch in garments as this has led to the growing inclusion of elastane fibres. Generally, the percentages are small but just 1% of elastane in an otherwise all-cotton T-shirt is sufficient for the garment to be rejected at a recycling sorting plant.

Mono material fabrics, by contrast, are easily recyclable at the ends of their useful lives because they are made entirely from a single type of fibre. But it has been difficult to achieve the levels of comfort, function, style and performance expected by consumers in mono material fabrics.

Traditionally, polyamide is combined with polyester to achieve durability in a fabric while polyurethane membranes are typically combined with polyester to provide waterproof properties.

Developments in mono material fabrics have relied solely on polyester to provide performance attributes. But this is contentiousnot least because the bulk of the world's polyester is derived from petroleum and can not, therefore, be considered to be environmentally sustainable.

At the European fabric fairs for spring/summer 2023, some exhibitors had overcome the challenges of developing mono material fabrics and showcased innovations in advanced mono material fabrics which offer environmental sustainability and high levels of performance.

Sanko Textile, for example, showcased a collection of 100% organic cotton fabrics which are biodegradable, compostable and easily recyclable at the ends of their useful lives.

The fabrics are lightweight, smooth and soft, and they boast excellent colour brilliance which is maintained, even after repeated wash cycles. The colour brilliance results from using mercerised yarns with a high twist construction in the fabrics.

In order to optimise the recyclability of textile products, some exhibitors had developed fabrics made using cellulosic fibres rather than developing mono material fabrics.

Recent advancements in recycling technology mean that cellulose can be recovered easily from cellulosic fibre textile waste and used in the manufacture of pulp for producing new fibres.

At the European fabric fairs, Bossa, a company based in Adana, Turkey, presented a denim fabric collection that it had produced using blends of cellulosic fibres in the form of cotton, lyocell, Naia and Refibra fibre.

Unlike conventional mono material fabrics, fabrics in the Bossa denim fabric collection provide a range of performance properties as a result of the different types of cellulosic fibre used in their manufacture.

In particular, Naia fibre imparts quick drying properties, softness and a high level of comfort while Refibra fibre facilitates a high level of moisture absorption.

Tosco, a fabric manufacturer based in Tokyo, Japan, showcased shirting fabrics made using cellulosic fibres in the form of cotton, lyocell and modal in blends with ramiea lesser known cellulosic bast fibre.