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Material Strategies. Dress and Gender in Historial Perspective. Edition No. 1. Gender and History Special Issues

  • ID: 5225846
  • Book
  • July 2003
  • 276 Pages
  • John Wiley and Sons Ltd
Material Strategies brings together scholars from different disciplines to explore what dress and textiles can tell us about gender history.
  • Broad in scope – covers women, men, social groupings and nations from the sixteenth to the twentieth century.
  • Rich in detail – incorporates illustrations that provide visual evidence for gendered strategies of dress.
  • Combines perspectives from design and textile history, business history, cultural anthropology, social history, art history and cultural history.
  • Considers ‘material strategies’ in relation to production and consumption, the public and the private, the body and sexuality, and national identity.
  • Written in a jargon-free style, making it accessible to readers from a wide range of backgrounds.
Note: Product cover images may vary from those shown
Introduction: Material Strategies Engendered: Barbara Burman (University of Southampton) and Carole Turbin (SUNY/Empire State College).

Part I: Dress, Textiles and Social Transitions in Pre-industrial Europe:.

1. Fashion, Time and the Consumption of a Renaissance Man in Germany: The Costume Book of Matthaus Schwarz of Augsburg, 1496-1564: Gabriele Mentges (University of Dortmund).

2. Reflections on Gender and Status Distinction: An Analysis of the Liturgical Textiles Recorded in Mid-Sixteenth-Century London: Maria Hayward (University of Southampton).

Part II: Identity and Eroticism, Consumption and Production, from the Early Seventeenth to the Mid-Twentieth Century:.

1. Following Suit: Men, Masculinity and Gendered Practices in the Clothing Trade in Leeds, England, 1890-1940: Katrina Honeyman (University of Leeds).

2. Pocketing the Difference: Gender and Pockets in Nineteenth-Century Britain: Barbara Burman (University of Southampton).

3. Fashioning the American Man: The Arrow Collar Man, 1907-1931: Carole Turbin.

4. Erotic Modesty: (ad)dressing Female Sexuality and Propriety in Open and Closed Drawers, USA, 1800-1930: Jill Fields (California State University, Fresno).

Part III: Fashion Strategies for Reconfiguring Nations and Social Groups in the Early Twentieth Century:.

1. ‘De-Humanised Females and Amzonians’: British Wartime Fashion and its Representation in Home Chat, 1914-1918: Cheryl Buckley (University of Northumbria).

2. Fashion, the Politics of Style and National Identity in Pre-Fascist and Fascist Italy: Eugenia Paulicelli (City University of New York).

3. Style and Subversion: Postwar Poses and the Neo-Edwardian Suit in Mid-Twentieth-Century Britain: Christopher Breward (London College of Fashion).

4. ‘Anti-Mini Militants Meet Modern Misses’: Urban Style, Gender and the Politics of ‘National Culture’ in 1960s Dar es Salaam, Tanzania: Andrew M. Ivaska (University of Michigan).

5. Dressing for Leadership in China: Wives and Husbands in an Age of Revolutions (1911-1976): Verity Wilson (Victoria and Albert Museum, London).

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Barbara Burman University of Southampton.

Carole Turbin SUNY Empire State College.
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